“A quietly powerful meditation on life and all its water resonances that will make you want to don a wetsuit and dive into the bone chilling sea.”
NATHANIEL PHILBRICK
Pulitzer Prize Finalist
“A book that will strike a chord (plenty actually) in any surfer’s heart. When it comes to surfing - passion, obsession, psychopathic pursuit - it’s hard to get it right. With a poet’s and a humorist’s touch, his story will resonate with anyone who has fallen under surfing’s spell.”
KEN MCALPINE
Winner, Lowell Thomas Award
“Gordinier reminds us of our spiritual connection, and captures the essence -- the passion of those who embrace the ocean.”
WINDCHECK MAGAZINE
“Dr. Glenn Gordinier’s prose is both personal and universal, analytic and reflective, touching and scientific. Gordinier channels the far -flung experiences of winter surfing into one easily digestible work that still invites surfers to dig their toes into the snow covered sand.”
EASTERN SURF MAGAZINE
“A poet of surfing - he captures the stoke and exhilaration, if you love surfing, you’ll love this book.
KATHY KOHNER ZUCKERMAN,
The Real–Life Gidget